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Dutton Kit Cars and their owners

It seems completely unnecessary and the mounting points stop the front from tipping up properly

I'm also interested in castor adjustment

So, has anyone done the removal of the Escort Mk 2 thing?

I can see you can get a thing called a compression strut for Escorts that replaces it and faces backwards - might not fit a phaeton chassis...

Otherwise it's custom lower wishbones I guess......

If anyone has done this I'd be most interested.....

Thanks

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We decided against compression struts due to their cost and complexity just to retain the ARB mounting and the Ford TCA. This was combined with a level of discomfort with the idea of a spring bracket welded to the TCA, the feeling that the ARB was completely unnecessary (the Stylus does not have one) and that it interferes with the front tipping up fully. Handling wise an ARB normally increases understeer although it's possible that on a Phaeton the roll is so small anyway that that does not matter that much. The main aim of all this is to improve feel - we'll see how well it works shortly I hope If you are having major understeer problems I suggest looking at tracking and also if your front tyres are over inflated. 22is PSI is probably plenty on these cars as they're so light but we've seen quite few people thinking it should be 30+ since that is what many saloon cars run with - but then they're way heavier On the other hand if all that is in hand and depending on how far you are pushing things while driving, it's possible that the ARB is the problem My Stylus does not have an ARB but a few people have fitted a very small one (~10mm dia) mainly for track use

This is a great thread, someone doing the right thing, I hope, well done. As someone who has dabbled in wishbones and suspension geometry, I'm keen to see the results of this work. I'm about to embark on a project, tempted to hold off a minute until you have done :-)

22psi is probably a bit high.....i use 18 psi i have even run at 15 psi  (gripped good but tyre moves on rim when booted.....)

only having an adjusting screw on the rear of the upper wish bone twists the bushes to the point where they will wear very rapidly (i have tried it......it works but isnt a good solution) ....you can rose joint the bushes....but they can wear VERY quickly.

doe's the wheel miss the bottom wish bone on full lock

castor angle

these will help..

Here is the new set up with the new lower wishbone

The wheel has plenty of clearance on full lock

Unfortunately we have a different issue with the end of the steering rack touching the wishbone on full lock

We are thinking about how to resolve this. Obviously we could alter the wishbone to have a crank in it, probably causing a weak point. Alternatively maybe the steering arm could be altered as it is a separate part of the hub and can be removed. We are wondering whether we could swap the left and right steering arms, reversing the taper on each side and therefore moving the steering ball joint to the top of the steering arm rather than underneath.

Thinking mode...

I have seen track rod ends where the joint is offset to one side. Could you possibly find an equivalent that might solve your issue?

A bit like this - might just give you a gnat's pubic hair more clearance:

http://www.mustangdepot.com/OnLineCatalog/Steering/images/C5ZZ-3A13...

got to be worth a try, is your shock adjuster OK in that plane? mine faces inboard now. Looking good.

the coilover could be either way round but it's been this way for a while

Anyone know it that cranked TRE (for a mustang?) is likely to fit?

Swap steering arms left to right and turn over, then invert TRE so nut is on the bottom?

Seems the easiest and most economical method to me.

Certainly considering that but a bit worried about altering steering pivot points and causing bump steer. Any experience of that idea anywhere?

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