Dutton Kit Cars and their owners
I put up a thread about problems i was having with the car a few months ago which can be found under my post
Hi - I need some help again with a problem I have with my Phaeton. All was going well after i fixed the carb problems but recently i have discovered a further fault. It was running ok for a short time but then I took it out for a short run on boxing day and it started to splutter and eventually cut out on me. It refused to start again and I ended up getting towed home. I have since then had no luck getting it to start since. There is a strong spark at each of the plugs 9 checked by holding each one out against the rocker cover and turning the engine over). There is also fuel getting through as the plugs are wet after turning the engine over. The timing is still set good and nothing appears to have slipped. So i am at a loss as to why the engine spins over, there is a spark and fuel - so why won't it fire up anymore? Any help greatkly appreciated.
I would do a compression test to start and if that's ok check the fuel for water , its possible the spark is breaking down under compression due to faulty coil or condenser, does it even try to fire
I had this exact problem a couple of years back, the AA man said it was the fuel pump, turned out to be the condenser..... it now has electronic ignition :-)
Need a picture to id your existing
I used the accuspark stealth kit in my existing distributor (Bosch) which completely replaces the points and condenser, after I got the car running I decided to fit one of their coils too. I'm sure they do a kit for either type of distributor and its very easy to do.
OK - so an update - worked on it all day today - got a powerspark electronic distributor and fitted it today - no issues there. Got a new set of accuspark triple cored plugs in that are getting a strong spark. Did a compression test and all 4 cylinders are good. Turned over and moved the distributor to try and get it to fire. The engine after ages and lots of revving fired and seems to be running on one cylinder. Checked fuel is being squirted into the carb ok - all good there. The plugs however seem quite dry when checked after turning it over for a while. I would have thought they would have been soaked. This has confounded me so far as it has a friend with a lot of experience of these pinto engines. Any further ideas or suggestions appreciated....
How did you set the timing Glenn
I would check that you have the ignition leads in the correct order going into the distributor for the Pinto firing order. If that is wrong then you might only get 1 or 2 cylinders firing and if you change the timing you might be getting one of the others instead. There are two ways to get it wrong because it depends on a) the firing order and b) the direction that the distributor rotates. The Pinto is 1-3-4-2 and the rotor arm rotates clockwise.
I have an Accuspark Bosch conversion in my Legerra. The 'firing' point is way off where you would expect it to be. It took quite a few attempts to get the right 'slot' on the dizzy.
With so many altered variables in play I would go back to basics and start by setting TDC and cam timing by eye followed by distributor timing. Set the dizzy so you have maximum rotation available and get someone else to operate the key while you rotate the body of the dizzy. If it fires make a note of the rotor arm position at TDC in relation to the ignition pack. Remember the pinto will fire when setup 180 degrees out too so be prepared for multiple attempts.Once the firing point has been found leave the dizzy alone and return the engine to TDC by rotating clockwise with a 19mm spanner. pop the dizzy cap and tippex the mark on the lobe and on the pack to make them line up. Remove the dizzy again and set to optimum position using your tippex marks as reference, then go for a fine tune using a timing light on number one. Do this with the vacumn pipes blocked both ends so vac advance has no effect.
Thanks - I set the static timing by putting the engine to TDC and noting the firing position rotor of the original distributor was pointing at plug lead 1. The firing order of leads on the distributor cap is correct. When I put the new distributor in with the cap on I again positioned it with the rotor arm pointing to the position of the 1st lead. I realise this is just a rough setting but even when we turned the engine over and moved the distributor body through a fairly wide range when it did fire and run it was if it was only on 1 or 2 cylinders. It cant be the wrong way round as if i set it 180 round it would be firing at cylinder 4. We are going to try fresh fuel being fed directly into the system to see if the fuel is contaminated.
You can just take off the air filter and slosh some petrol down the carb. I do that when the car has been standing for a while in order to save using the battery to turn over the engine just to pump the fuel into the carb. I don't actually measure it but I would guess that I put 20-30ml (about 1 alcohol measure). Then the car starts first turn and by the time that the fuel is used up then the fuel pump has filled the carb.