Dutton Kit Cars and their owners

some pics of the rebuild process,

the top trailing arm bracket is broke......

the diff is sloping back a little (looking up) so that will need sorting.......

As you can see there isn't a lot of bracing in an S1 chassis, that will be sorted.

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Dave if you want info on using the stock Zetec ECU - both the 104 pin and the 60 pin I have lots as I've done both types - and they work very well

I don't have time to type very much here but I can tell you that they are both EEC-V types, that you dont need the edis using but you do need a MAF sensor, key and key detector ring. Actually a full engine bay wiring harness would be very handy with these. Oh yes and the instruments on the 60 pin type are all digital ie no separate  temp, fuel, revs or speedo output. However that makes it all quite easy to use a focus instrument pack!

if you want a really good but really complex wiring diagram for both types you can get one here ftp://ftp.idm.ru/pub/ffclub/2003_5_Focus_WD.pdf

More info later if you want it

I will be In touch..
Dave. I sent you pics today of the goodies set aside for you.

was just about to reply to them......but i will do it here instead.....they look just great.

sorry for not getting to you sooner......but...

its been a busy day for me one way or annother, my wifes father has just passed away from a shortish illness involving stomach, liver and bowel cancer...he was surrounded by his children and seemed not to be in pain. if there is such a thing as a good death under the circumstances he got one.

Blimey. Sad news Dave. Hope the family holding, family first. Any those bits aren't going anywhere and you're name is on them. Take care.

yeah he was a nice bloke.

the plastic manifolds look like the ones i need but the ally one just may be useful.

not decided what to do with my cars yet....the carb idea is very interesting, but the useability of fuel injection is just too tempting.

Steve and Matt, the wiring diagram is very useful i had found something similar on the net a few days ago but the thought of printing it out is a bit daunting.....i have found more than one ecu wiring pinout for the ford 60 pin ecu's and they seem to be different depending on the model car they are fitted to. the one i have has an extra wire to the connector block under the dash the the OBD wiring goes through. I hope the diagrams you have show me what the extra wire i have does and how the various sensors and switches should be wired up.....

what i am doing now is stripping the wiring down and cutting out everything not needed....i will likely also loose some of the loom connecting plugs (the one to the fuse box......way too complicated for my car) but the large connector to the injectors will stay. I am missing the idle control valve and its plug, but i think almost any ford one will do. the cylinder head coolant temp sender wire has also been cut off and was not on the loom when i got it. so once i work out all the relays and fuses it will all be trimmed and laid in place.

the OBD plug will be retained. the clocks will not be.....just too bulky for a phaeton.

Don't bother printing. Way too many pages and you can't do a search with a paper copy. It's so complicated that even wiring colour codes are not sufficient  - you need the circuit ID. Id actually recommend the focus pack as it does everything and costs peanuts 

A few more mins avalable:

There are a few different 60Pin ECUs with the earlier ones being EEC-IV types from Sierras etc. I wouldnt bother with those. The EEC-V types are labelled (at least mine are) as being that with a sticker on the the connector once you manage to get the hard-to-remove metal shroud off the plug and unplug it. I think the plugs are actually incompatible between EEC-IV and EEC-V even though both can have 60 pins.

The 104 pin EEC-V is I think a slightly older design as it is not intended for use with digital (ie OBD controlled)  instruments whereas the the 60pin type is. That's great if you can use Focus instrument pack but rubbish if you want you use a traditional set.

Focus instruments from this (ie Zetec black top) era are very cheap and are not coded to the ECU. This is can be good except for speedo calibration (which is something I'm currently working on)

If you want traditional instruments then use a 104pin ECU that because there is a tacho output that the 60pin type doesnt

There is also an even newer 60pin ECU used on the 1.25 engines from Fiestas etc that are different again - but which also have been used

On balance I'd say that the 104pin ECU is easier to use but the 60 pin one allows the use of cheap focus instruments - which are then very easy to wire up with all the sensors being connected by a pair of OBD wires.

In both cases having an engine bay wiring harness to go with the engine and ECU will make your life much easier.

You will also need a matching key and a key sensor. The key sensor doesn't need to match the ECU or key

When all done working though these are brilliant - steady idle, easy start in cold weather, pretty good power ~130bhp as standard on the 2 litre, maybe a bit more with a tubular exhaust and intake.

Although there are quite a few different ECUs from different models/years (identified from code names such as TEAR or BASH as long as they're from the same Blacktop Zetec era and (probably) same engine size they all seem to work. Don't get one from a Diesel though!

Oh yes and OBD is great - plug in a bluetooth adaptor and monitor everything on your Android phone using Torque

I can provide even more advice on the wiring .....if you want....

Steve and Matt...... do you have details of the focus wiring for the instruments? i might go that way later....

If you go for the carb then it will need setting up - jetting and the like. It is unlikely to give you the same power or smooth operation as the fuel injection. Plus you still need to sort out an ignition drive with 'vacuum' advance and engine speed advance. To my mind that is as difficult, or more difficult, than sorting an ECU. The ignition control box would need most of the sensors and loom for the full system so you might as well go the whole way.

I don't like the security stuff on the Ford ECU. Also, if you need a different fuel or spark map because of differences in your installation, then can you change them? I believe that MAF's can be significantly affected by changes to the induction system so that they need to be recalibrated (in the ECU) if they are plumbed differently. You might prefer to go for a different generic ECU which would give you that sort of control.

I am currently building myself a Speeduino ECU for my Pinto. It is supposed to cost about $100 but I reckon mine will work out over £200 with box and connectors - I have no existing loom. I think that I could have done it a lot more cheaply if I sourced the components in the UK and restricted my implementation only to the necessary channels for a 4 cylinder engine.

I have bought an after market dash pod...intended for motorbike or Quad. I have used them before on my last car. They are compact and give everything you need.
The tacho is by an inductive pick up on one plug wire and programmable for 1,2,3,4 cylinders single or dual spark.
This allows for more dash space for other things (glovebox)
I have stripped the loom and removed lots of crap. .. (AC wires...for instance) and will be doing a complete wiring diagram for the ecu fitting for those that follow me..complete with all fuses and relays needed. This will be a stand alone set up so that it can be fitted into any existing car with no need to modify the existing wiring.
I could really use just the ecu schematic wiring diagram general to the focus. It would go well with the rest of the article.


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