"Adrian. Are you able to send the Legerra build plans by any chance. I am just about to get into some ground work and have planned a few fixes 1. Chassis strengthening. 2. Radiator move to eliminate hose fretting 3. Roof bolt hole fix for hard top…"
thks for the photos they really help to understand the principle and your explanation is very good. I understand what the fix does and the cause of sagging - this may take a bit of time to sort out and especially handling welding with it all…"
There are two reasons the legerra doors droop.
1 as previously stated, the chassis has flex along the bottom rail. This causes the doors to foul the door shuts and can be rectified by adding 40x20 box section to the bottom of the main railes…"
"Yes.DO NOT use the same method as I did, it isn't accurate enough however take a look at my flickr gallery here where you can see the work I have done on one of mine.Once you've had a look at the photo's we can discuss stuff.
planning two new fixes for the next few weeks and would welcome any tips.
Have you had any experience of trying to fix the sagging doors, passenger side is worse so I would like to tackle this one first.
Also have put on the black vinyl roof…"
"Adrian, many thanks for the kind welcome. Yes pdf copy would be great - no panic though.
Good to hear there is a Leggy specialist about as I am sure there will be much advice requested in the future. This is a long term plan for me and good…"
I will nosey around the site to get my bearings. I may need to get my hands on a legerra building manual at some point.
What is the normal protocol - do you keep records of Chassis numbers and engine numbers for historical info and…"
pleased to have finally got my hands on a Legerra. Recently purchased from a member of the Dutton Owners club. It is now in safe hands and hope to plan on giving some additional restoration where possible but more importantly enjoy the…"
1 as previously stated, the chassis has flex along the bottom rail. This causes the doors to foul the door shuts and can be rectified by adding 40x20 box section to the bottom of the main railes whilst under tension. This is where I went wrong on my project. Car needs to be fully assembled and at running weight. Hold the pre formed box section against the lower edge of the chassis with a trolley jack and, lifting from the centre of the door opening, with the doors closed go up slowly until the chassis starts to lift. Be very gentle and go up slowly until the door is a 50p's thickness higher than the rear door shut edge. You can now start stitch welding the box section onto the lower rail VERY carefully.
When it's lowered back onto its wheels this gap should diminish or vanish as gravity and the existing curve of the chassis (and they are all curved) It may still be up a bit but this will go when you get in the seat. Once happy with the fitting, finish welding. When both box sections are stitched on get it up on ramps or axle stands under the axle / front lower arms to seam the inside edge. Make sure not to damage the bodywork or any pipes / wires in the process.
The second reason is that the mild steel door tubes have rusted out. This happened to my drivers door whilst we were on tour and I bodged a fix, that bodge is still in place but a new hinge will be forthcoming once I cut the assembly from a donor door to see how it works and replicate it in stainless or ally. That won't be for a while yet as i'm half way through restoring an S4 Phaeton.
Yes. DO NOT use the same method as I did, it isn't accurate enough however take a look at my flickr gallery here where you can see the work I have done on one of mine. Once you've had a look at the photo's we can discuss stuff.