Phaeton project

[Pete Clayton]

Went and picked up a Phaeton from Big Vern (Cheers mate!) as a rebuild project. Its an S1 but has some S2 bits from the looks of it like the rear bodywork which has the bulges for spring hangers.

The plan is to strip it back to the bare chassis and then build it up from there, new bushes, calipers etc and a new engine just not sure what yet! It came with some goodies such as some Revolution wheels with yokos, a nice stainless exhaust and a new hood.

Looking forward to getting stuck in. Here's some pics, excuse the quality they're from my phone

[Pete Clayton]

Went down the unit today and removed the engine and box, fitted the fibre glass bulkhead back in and the refitted the engine and box. I'm not going to use the original bulk head but put it in to get an idea of where to make the frame for the new one.

This is part of the reason for not using it, turbo very close and I need to fit the metering unit. I think the metering unit will get mounted just above the gearbox

I rested everything back in place for the time being to create a bit of space down there. Looks almost like a car!

[Pete Clayton]

Hoping to go and do some tinkering with the car at the weekend, haven't looked at it for at least a month. I wonder if the fairies have done any work for me lol

[Pete Clayton]

The intercooler is going at the front. Radiator was too wide to come further forward fowled on the steering column. Going to make some plates to duct the air.

[Dave Adams]

I would look to moving the radiator into the nose cone....cooling is important on a turbo engine, and ducting the air to the radiator would be a pain for you.....besides the inter-cooler would work better far out front.

[Pete Clayton]

Bit of progress today, made some brackets up for the new radiator and trial fitted

The modified (reversed) charge pipe I bought

Radiator

[Big Vern]

Pete, Key thing is to make sure you still have the same volume of oil at the full mark when the sump has been shortened especially with the turbo.

[Pete Clayton]

Managed to get those ball joints done up earlier using some non-nylocs (Thanks Dave) didn't bother swapping them after it was all seated as will be coming apart again.

Thanks for the info on sumps, with the tyres inflated there is currently 2.5 inches of clearance. I might buy another sump later in the build and get that modified to fit, plenty of other jobs to get on with before that.

[Pete Clayton]

Dave, i'm planning to fabricate in a bulk head and transmission tunnel like you and Paul have which will add some more strength. The rear trailing arm brackets are going to be cut off and replaced and a 5th link added.

[Dave Adams]

reducing the height of the sump pan is not a hard thing to do and would be better than bashing the sump on the road (it will happen) it is very easy to knock a hole in a sump pan usually miles from home.....

[Dave Adams]

to do up a loose ball joint.....use a non nyloc nut and tighten it up, lightly tap the ball joint from the top as you tighten it, it will go eventually. Once tight take the non nyloc nut off and replace it with a nyloc.

You really do need to brace that chassis for that turbo engine it will handle like a broken hinge if you push it. if you look at the mods i did to mine especially at the rear roll bar you will see what needs doing....the extra stiffness to the chassis was very noticeable, for the better.