DuttonOwners

Dutton Kit Cars and their owners

some pics of the rebuild process,

the top trailing arm bracket is broke......

the diff is sloping back a little (looking up) so that will need sorting.......

As you can see there isn't a lot of bracing in an S1 chassis, that will be sorted.

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Or maybe it thinks that the drivers door is open?

Ecu is only running the engine.....lights are only controlled by my switches and the dip switch on the column. .....the lights are all relay switched via the earth cct. That earth cct runs via the dip switch......

well this shake down period is showing up some minor faults..

the problem with the lights i think is water getting onto my fuses and relays.....need to find out where its getting in.

the car has developed a missfire when suddenly accelerated totally cuts out. ecu tells me nothing. so air leak? fuel pressure? or coil pack. i need to investigate.

if i accelerate less briskly its all ok.

not likely to be water for the missfire as the ecu electrics are on the other side of the car.

Dave, I ran into the same problem with my old girl. I discovered that the distributor old style points just were not working properly and replaced them with new electronic points and replaced the vacuum tube that goes from the distributor to the manifold. She ran great after I made these changes.  

my car only has a crank sensor and a coil pack......

but i am checking the plugs and coil packs...

the code reader did say that my O2 sensors are not working......neither of them. thing is it does have one sensor. it says the preheat is not working.

could that be the issue? would an inop O2 sensor cause a missfire?

a little research says MAF sensor.........

i have a spare so it will get tried. wish me luck.

also i got the Jan 18 thing today.....but i could see that my posts had updated.....so i clicked on my forum posts and then back to "main" and the home page updated as it should.

What year was the donor Dave and i'll look up the parts on Autocat.

Usually there is a precat and postcat sensor.

pre cat only...... as the cat is in the bin.....

its a 51 plate 1.8 Focus donor.

could use a price for a spare in any case.....just in case, couldn't hurt to get a spare.

There are pre and post cat sensors listed. Assuming the ECU is clever enough to work out your fuel to air ratio it follows that it must also be clever enough to work out that one of the lambda sensors isn't connected. If you have dispensed with other sensors surely they too show as faulty?

Pre cat lambda sensor is £30.18 + post

Product No: VE381000

Ford Focus 1.8 Dual Fuel MK 1 (1998-2005) - Estate - Part fitment dates 10/00-04/01

Engine Code - 
EYDC, EYDG, EYDB, EYDD, EYDE, EYDF, EYDI, EYDJ, EYDL
Before Catalyst
Connector Type Green
Note 4 wire
Len: 400mm, Diam: 18mm, Thread: 1.5

green connector. thats the one.

the ecu does list missing sensors as faulty, the second O2 sensor and the fuel evap purge solenoid are both not fitted. however it says that the pre cat O2 sensor pre heat is inop. i will be checking the cat fuse and the relay......the fuse needs to be quite big as it has quite a current draw.

interesting point the thread is the same as the Pinto spark plug.....

after i have checked the fuses and the voltages for the sensor i will get on to you for a replacement.

tried to phone you during this last week adrian......no joy phone straight to answer machine.

anyway.... more checks on my car. MAF sensor removed and cleaned and then replaced for spare....fault still there so it looks like it may be low fuel pressure. unfortunately i don't have a suitable fuel pressure gauge (or at least one with suitable adaptors to use on a fuel system capable of several bar pressure.)

i do have a spare fuel pump (boy am i glad i designed my fuel tank to take standard Ford fuel pumps) so i just need to remove my boot floor access panel and then remove the fuel pump and swap it. that might solve the problem but i am still inclined to get a test gauge for future use.

i think i may also need a new lambda sensor, still checking it. it may just be a feature of the car that the sensor is only active after the car gets a little temperature into the engine.

i have been testing the car under WOT to check for the "stuttering" it has when booted......boy does it go well when pushed. (and the fault clears....)

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