HPG128K - Dutton Sierra Series 2 - rescued from an early grave?

[Adrian Southgate]

So the saga of the gearbox rear seal continues. When it had the rear crank seal done the garage also fitted a prop/tailshaft seal which promptly leaked just as badly as the one they took out.

When I had the horrible vibration issue it was coming from the prop not fitting into the gearbox. Thinking this might have damaged the bush inside the tailshaft and caused the leak I ordered a new one and another seal. Now if anyone tells you this is a DIY job DON'T believe a word of it. Getting the seal out is an easy one with a modified puller, getting down the side of the tailshaft past the bush is bloody impossible without the right tool. According to the haynes manual for the Ford Sierra its a ford dealer job...I now agree. As it was needed for work tomorrow the new seal went in without changing the bush, a right pain in the arse.

[Steve Kerswell]

I think you should rename this post Ade, just "Under the Sierra", then we could all just join in as and when :-))

[Brian (up north) Morris]

im feeling that a bit ade. is it sierra. mk1/2 escort. cortina. capri. lol

[Brian (up north) Morris]

lol. 

[Adrian Southgate]

@ Martin - I have gremlin repellant, WD40 and a lighter...

@ Steve - I turned that cheek years ago. The problem I have is that it's not just one car, not just one TYPE of car, Its all of them. One of the reasons I decided to do the white one 'right' is because I knew the legerra chassis had faults. To find the same fault reversed on another type of car completely is ridiculous. That TWD laddie has a lot to answer for. 

[Steve Kerswell]

Well, what can one say, but bother, and turn the other cheek.

[Adrian Southgate]

Progress report.

lower suspension arms taken off and new poly bushes fitted. Now I bought a set from floflex and to be honest i'm disappointed. Inner ones are tapered and needed trimming down by over 3mm  in places to get a snug (had to wind them in with a bolt) fit. As soon as you undo the bolt they start to slide out again 

.

As i'm allowed sharp knives I used one to slice little bits off until it was just too tight rather than being way too big. Compressed in with a nut and bolt and two huge washers they are now staying put... in fact I don't think they will come out even if I wanted to.

Outer ones needed a slight taper cutting to fit into the recess in the TCA but when fitted there is a gap between the centre of the bush and the metal of the TCA, the middle bit is too small. As there are two 'middle bits I can see them being very compressed in a small space so don't see that evolving into a problem anytime soon.

All these trimmed I started to reassemble only to find out the tubes in the centre of the inner are too long to fit into the crossmember. Out with a 2lb ball pein adjuster and fixed that... While I have it all in bits I checked to see if the TCA's are parallel... 

Its a Dutton so of course one side is pulled forward by the ARB which makes it an arse to relocate without a ratchet strap, crowbar and trolley jack...

Anyway, Got all that sort of loosely bolted together and went to put the castle nuts on the ARB... centre tube is too long AGAIN and now the castellated bit doesn't get anywhere near the original hole in the ARB.

Time for food...

[Brian (up north) Morris]

no i thought you could convert them lol

[Adrian Southgate]

Drum fronts?  the way I drive? 

[Adrian Southgate]

worked out cheaper than buying new legs, damper inserts and roller tops so i'm not unhappy about that. Replacement springs @ £38 a pair in so many different rates and lengths and you can't do that with a 'normal' strut. It will also allow me to drop the front down to make the Sierra level, its always been a bit front high.

[Brian (up north) Morris]

nice bet they wasnt cheep. their is some on e bay now,  with drums