So, I have to get new TCA's for one of the cars. Do I get rose jointed inners or bushed inners?
The rose jointed ones come with new bolts, top hat spacers, dust covers. The poly bushed ones come with just bushes and sleeves. I must admit the rose jointed ones look more professional however its a road car, used for touring on mixed road surfaces so the benefits of that inner bush will be noticeable.
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Forgot about Nicks idea, I know we sort of got 75% there with the trailing strut idea, mine would be for the Sierra, which probably needs ARB :-))
Once I have a nice stable platform to bolt the ARB to then I mat try to make a set. I do have a spare ARB I can play with. It would be bushed on the TCA and rose jointed on the chassis bracket, In theory it should fit all ford based Duttons if it works. I'd only need two left hand thread rose joints, two threaded sleeves to weld onto the end of the ARB stump and two of those double ended bolts with left and right threads, oh and a couple of locknuts each side.
? Steve, the anti roll bar is there to prevent roll funnily enough. S3/4 Phaeton/melos/legerra are already too tail happy due to the shortened wheelbase Increasing front roll only makes this worse. The only way to regain the roll stiffness is to increase the spring rate making the ride unpleasent - Given that most on here advise softening the spring rate at the front I cannot see the value of this modification. Re-mount the ARB and what ever else to 'square' the car up if its that much of an issue. Cost small, effect large.
I listened... hence manufacturing new mounts for the green one out of box. They'll bring the ARB down an inch at the front and pull the discrepancy out of the wheel geometry at the same time. I still want to try it with tension struts at some point even if it does make it worse. As I am going to use the 22mm ARB to do it then nothing lost really as its worse than useless on a leggie.
i am not convinced that there is much need for the ARB on the legerra, i see no reason why compression struts wouldnt work.
Must get my glasses sorted, thought you said "Grumbling" Paul :-))
The only grumbling done in my workshop is by the miserable old git that works there ;-)))))
My original design is for weld on units but it's just a bit of 40mm box section cut diagonally to produce a channel shaped like a wedge of cheese. it would be possible to add angle to the sides to make brackets which could be drilled through and sleeved nuts used to stop the box collapsing. The only drawback I can see it the holes in the chassis elongating over time. I'd weld the bolts in from the back of the channel to provide a flat surface on which to mount the bushes. I need to have a look at the standard escort bracket to work out if there is a step or not.
all of my phaetons have been tail happy but once the suspension settings and spring rates were sorted (as well as tyre pressures etc) they held the road very nicely, my green phaeton was very hard to unstick on the road and corners could be taken at very respectable speeds. with out exception they all needed softer springs to sort them out.
So the more rubber on the road the better then Dave?
you can actually buy TCA's that are adjustable and with shocker mounts already fitted.......
My knowledge of this subject is limited, my understanding is that if you have compression struts you also need drop links!
Is that right or wrong?
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