DuttonOwners

Dutton Kit Cars and their owners

What's the best starter motor to use for this combo?

What's annoying is that I already have one, but I need another and I can't identify it.
I think I've read that the one for a 1.8 CVH Sierra is correct for a Zetec / Type 9 but I'm keen to get one of the newer slimmer ones - which is what I already have on another vehicle! But what exactly is it? There's no markings and although it's only a couple of years old I can't find any order details! - argh...

help please - I'm nearly there but not quite!

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http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-MK1-MK2-Ford-Mondeo-1-4-KW-Starte... . My friend used this and it fitted. Limited stock.

Starter Motor LRS 707     see my build on here ..... http://www.godspeed.me/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=1055&star...

there are two no three choices......

1: Fit Pinto starter with 14mm spacers.....(you will need to cut part of the zetec block to fit it)

2: Fit a CVH starter, but you also need to cut the block to fit it,

3- fit Zetec starter (you will need to modify the type 9 bellhousing.

on my cars one has a MT75 box so the Zetec block needs some surgery for the CVH starter (off a FWD 1.6 orion) the other has a type 9 and i will be modifying the bell housing as above to fit the Zetec starter.

That's an impressive modification, Dave. I wonder how accurate that has to be for it to work nicely. Presumably the starter is actually positioned by the block fixings, so you can check the engagement without the bell housing in place.

cannot claim it for myself....it was danny bosworths work. he got the starter position by fixing the sandwich plate to the bellhousing and drawing a template....then welding some 6mm plate to it and shaping it. he has been using it like that for two years now with no problems....burton power sell a hydraulic slave adapter for the type 9 gear box to use the mondeo concentric slave.

Thanks for the responses. I did this before and can confirm that it is possible to do this without modifying the zetec block although you do have to cut the black top sump around quite a bit. However I did not use an original 'rmfd' ie recon CVH starter. It was new and because I think of recent progress with high density magnets, it is alot slimwmer in the motor - which is why I want to get another so as to be sure that I won't need further sump mods. 

Dave that's an impressive piece of work!

It brings me to another question about welding onto a cast iron/steel? bellhousing - in order to attach an external hydraulic clutch slave cylinder.......

The bell housing is cast steel not cast iron, so with some preheat and a decent amount of amps you should get it to weld OK. I have a bolt on plate for my hydraulic clutch arm, I will try to get a picture, eye on end of finger job :-) I have seen the internal hydraulic clutch mechanism so all you do is bring an aeroquip type hose from within. Interesting thread, please keep us informed. Back to the welding, if you can stick weld you can get dissimilar rods, belt and braces, but the correct procedure.

Thanks for that. Yes cast steel welding - which bears onto the subject of welding onto lower track control arms too.....

I'm hoping not to have to dismantle the engine/box to fit a 'proper' internal hydraulic clutch release. I was thinking of bolting on an external slave bracket, but that steel is quite thick for drilling.  Maybe welding would be easier. .... hmmm

well its because i use them........;-)

As you say you can get standard sierra to fit straight on no mods
Lucas LRS543
You can get modern versions of those from bride an a couple of other sources,try demon tweeks or Dave. College at retro Ford
What sump you running ? Never had to mod a sump with a 543

I havn't seen the LRS543, but with the LRS707 I had to grind away a fair bit of the webbing on the sump in order to prevent the body fouling. 

Hah! Maybe that's the answer I was looking for - LRS707!

Looks exactly the same as the one I had in the previous setup!

As you say, a fair bit if grinding was needed .I'm glad I kept that modded sump after I replaced it with the raceline one (because of overall sump depth - not problem in this project)

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