Dutton Kit Cars and their owners

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Comment by Dave Taylor on March 9, 2011 at 22:25

Ade's right with a Premier loom, I am in the process of fitting one into the Sierra. Everything you need already in a loom and over all the cheapest option, unless you can blagg wire terminals etc for free. Cable alone will cost you £50 and quality connectors are also not cheap, not worth going down the nasty car boot stuff that's about.

see the link



Comment by Dave Adams on March 9, 2011 at 22:02

rewiring your car is an absolute doddle, look at this link to MrG's site, it tells you how,



Comment by Adrian Southgate on March 7, 2011 at 23:04

When I built the Legerra I opted for a new loom from Premier wiring. At least with a new loom it makes fault finding easier, reduces the chance of corroded connections etc.


Comment by Dave Price on March 7, 2011 at 21:03
Just been randomly cut wires out of the Phaeton loom.  I am not going mad, just wiring up a 12S towing socket on the daily driver and was desperate to find some wire for an earth wire.  I have spare Capri loom for the Phaeton so no harm done.
Comment by Dave Adams on March 6, 2011 at 8:06
I dont think the axle can be moved on the springs as they should have a lug to locate the two, on my S1 the axle tube just catches the back of the seat tub at full travel, so this may be normal. (not good, just normal) when i got my car it sat very high at the rear end and after playing with the springs etc got it to sit at a height that looks much better, only after "lowering" the car did i experience problems. you may find that when the car is sat on its springs that it may never touch the bodytub in normal use.
Comment by Dave Price on March 5, 2011 at 22:40
Quick question regarding the rear axle / body tub clearance.  Removed the rear wheels ready to fit my diff (car came with no diff), I noticed that the axle casing is currently rubbing the seat/body tub (rear of seats).  It is the main tubular parts of the casing casing that is rubbing the tub.  There is plently of clearance to the rear of the the diff bubble and the rear of the casing.  Could it be that the axle is mounted too far forward on the springs or is the tub to far back (I never checked if the wheels weren't central before I removed them).  It looks like the centre line of the axle (hubs) is 50mm forward of the centre line of where roll bar meets chassis.  Can the axle be moved back on the springs?  How much clearance should there be?  (it's a Phaeton S2)
Comment by Dave Adams on March 2, 2011 at 21:06
there should be no lash in the diff, the oil will take up some of the slack, but as you use it the lash will remain and rapid wear will result
Comment by Dave Price on March 2, 2011 at 20:51
Chickened out of the full on rebuild.  Left the pinion in place and just cahnged the diff carrier and diff carrier bearings (and a coat of paint).  Set the backlash as well as I could according to the instructions, painting the teeth and studying the pattern and the rotational backlash.  Then put oil all over everything to protect it, and now the backlash has gone, I assume the gear are full of nice new thick oil. 

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