Dutton Kit Cars and their owners

For those days when your parts just can't arrive quick enough, for sunny days when the transit just isn't 'fun'...

Project X...

Coming soon to a shed near me.

1997 DOHC, weber TC, MT75 box and Sierra fixed 3.72 diff in a Phaeton 3/4 hybrid.

I did some playing on gear calc and the theoretical stats look like this.

Gear   Mph per 1000 RPM  Mph @4000 RPM Mph @6000 RPM
1 4.91 20 29
2 9.17 37 55
3 14.24 57 85
4 19.08 76 114
5 23.27 93 (buttock clench) 140 (new pants)

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Comment by Adrian Southgate on October 26, 2018 at 18:58

As a side line to restoring old kits I have this little shop called NTS autoparts.

We now have the following items in stock.

Escort TCA's - brand QH

Maxi ball joints - brand QH

Escort mk1 clutch cables - First line and QH

Crossflow and pinto service items, gaskets and other parts.

Type 2, 3 and 9 gearbox rear oil seals.

Wheel bearings for ford and triumph based units.

Triumph upper ball joints for S1 and S2.

Discs, pads and calipers for M16 based cars.

DOC and forum members get 30% off retail

Comment by Adrian Southgate on October 19, 2018 at 19:32

Very little time to do this at the moment so only a little progress to report.

Since completing the gear selector modification I have...

Extracted the wrong diff, purchased in ignorance. I bought a 100mm PCD 7 inch diff and it should have been a 108mm 7.5 inch. Sadly they only seem to be fitted to cosworths so not a cheap option.

Reconditioned the driveshafts with new CV joints and boots.

Made the steering work after a fashion, enough to push it around without kicking the front wheels to steer it.

Worked out that by moving the engine back I may have left myself a little short in the footwell department.

Test fitted the bonnet with the new wheels setup only to find it may need a little tweak to cover said wheels.

So with those little teasers posted i'm off to do some more before I get evicted from my nice dry unit. Yes folks, I have to pack all my stuff onto pallets and move house. 4 cars in bits + 3 cars barely mobile, and about 100 boxes full of 'stuff', 20+ body panels ... and of course all the bits that are too big to go in boxes (sigh) 

I'll post some photo's if I remember to take some.

Comment by Adrian Southgate on November 21, 2017 at 16:39

The slight arc is compensated in the join between the selector and the tube that fits over it. I can reduce this by moving the rose joint backwards, there is over an inch of thread inside the bracket. I think thats where I had it set when I made the bracket but moved it during reassembly. Might help make the shift easier if i remove one washer and drop the rose joint back be one turn.

Comment by Paul Sheridan on November 21, 2017 at 10:41

In my mind it would work a lot smoother if the rose joint was in a horizontal plane. The rose joint will move freely in any single plane, but as you have added an arc into the equation (all be it small)  the lever will have to slide in the rose joint.............. Just writing as Im thinking in engineering mode, so dont take any notice of my ramblings ;-)))))


Comment by Adrian Southgate on November 21, 2017 at 9:29

@ Paul - trying to get the pivot as close to the centreline of the selector. If I increase the angle i'd have to move the tube back. The mark 1 was designed to have a vertical gearstick as that seemed to work on the type 9 in both the Legerra and the Sierra. If I went much further back I'd run into collision issues with the prop bolts in 1st, 3rd and 5th.

@ James - The tube with the drop arm? Thats made from the crush tube from an anti roll bar to TCA bush and a lump of 8mm bar stock. It is shimmed with a sacrificial sleeve from a Vectra suspension bush, I have a bag full at work and you can make 2 sleeves from each one.

Before I finalise it, I will take it down to component level and do some photo's.

Comment by James Doulton on November 21, 2017 at 8:50

I'm guessing that the pivot point of the gear lever needs to be in line with the centre of the selector shaft.

That looks good Ade. Where did the lever on the end of the selector shaft come from or was it part of the original mechanism?

Comment by Paul Sheridan on November 21, 2017 at 6:47

Video does work Ade.   Why does the rose joint have to be at an angle?   

Comment by Adrian Southgate on November 21, 2017 at 0:01
Comment by Adrian Southgate on November 20, 2017 at 23:37

So, the video was pants... I know. It works as a link, once you've watched the video just click the back button to return to the Ning page.

Comment by Adrian Southgate on November 20, 2017 at 23:28

Here goes, photo's for your perusal.

So this was the mark 1, partial success (providing you only needed third and fourth)


and... this is the mark 2, quite stiff to select gears whilst there is no clutch depression, the lever is short and there is a 

polybush on the knob end as a temporary safety feature.



The change of position on the pivot made all the difference, it now works in all 6 gear positions. I will have to cap the selector tube and extend it down the bar below then grind back. If I fit this cap with a grease nipple then it can be lubricated without disassembly. The excessive M12 bolt sticking forward from the pivot mount is to double lock the rose joint and will be replaced with a grub screw when they arrive.

At the suggestion of Mr Sheridan I attempted to shoot a video of it in operation... once again a tech fail as I forgot the camera mount so had to operate the shift while holding the camera with the other hand.  I don't know if this will work as it's on flickr not you tube. Starting by selecting fifth and banging down the gears it shifts well, short throw and very precise. I do think it's going to need more metal in the pivot mounting bracket, possibly using the blue bolt on the picture above (there is one both sides) which is the original mounting point for the old shift lever extension. 


I have now created gearbox mounts as the original Sierra one was cracked and fell into two pieces when removed. These are BMW transmission mounts from a 3 series, apparently made from sponge rubber and very soft. probably make the BMW very quiet but not ideal for this application. Might as well have used mini exhaust bobbins, probably stiffer. Seen from above they are mounted on the diagonal box section which is the only new bit I had to add (so far!) its 20 x 40 mm box left over from a previous project, drilled so the nut is hidden from below and can be concealed with a 20mm grommet. A 13mm 1/4 drive socket fits just right, i'll get a picture from underneath when I lift the chassis to finish the welding.


So there you go, half the mounts in, gear shift sorted. Got to cut and shut the prop next then take it to North West propshafts to be welded properly and balanced. As it's fixed i'm going to be able to get away with a very small prop catcher and tunnel  but I will be keeping a UJ on the diff end and the rubber donut on the front just in case the engine and box ever shift suddenly, don't want that bit getting stressed. The finished prop will have to be millimetre perfect as I have no adjustment on those transmission mounts.

Waiting for the next batch of bits to arrive so I can get the steering rack mounted. Why does the steering ALWAYS want to interfere with the engine mounts. More on that little issue next time.

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