Dutton Kit Cars and their owners
S1 Rebuild(s)
some pics of the rebuild process,
the top trailing arm bracket is broke......
the diff is sloping back a little (looking up) so that will need sorting.......
As you can see there isn't a lot of bracing in an S1 chassis, that will be sorted.
Replies to This Discussion
-
Permalink Reply by Dave Adams on
-
i have been working on my rack mounts today.....
they are at a different height to the last ones on my car....they are about 1" lower!
very different to the old ones above.
i have moved the suspension through a wide range of movement and the steering movement is at a minimum.
-
-
Well i got the full day playing with my S1 today and its back on wheels and the engine back in...
i needed to see if i got the rack mounts right at full weight, which it almost is now. the rack comes in at almost level and should be bang on when the radiator is fitted. i just need to check the tracking and camber before the radiator is fitted for ease of access.
The tracking has altered by a large amount, because i have lowered the rack mounts by about 25mm (1"). I dont know where i am going with the bonnet yet.
-
Permalink Reply by Pete Clayton on
-
Good work Dave, nice to see it back on its wheels
-
-
well i have made a decision today i do have a nose cone and need to make some cycle wings and brackets, as well as making a new bonnet to match the nose cone.....a lot of work and it will happen eventually. But to get the car back on the road i am going to repair and modify one of the bonnets i have been given to look like the way i had my car last year. But with the modification that the indicator pods will be smoothed in as the headlights will be.
there is a large hole in the front of the bonnet that needs filling (easy to do if i take a mould from my good bonnet on the Lancia engined car) i have had to cut a hole for the carb....and i need to fill the other hole opposite, but its all easy glass fibre work.
The spoiler is from another bonnet that was in a much poorer condition, but it was easy to remove the spoiler. It also needs some adjustment to get rid of the ledge on the top edge (as my other bonnet had been done), but as i say its all fibreglass work.
The top of the car is covered with boxes we have acquired for my step daughter who is moving house.
-
-
Not a thing done to my car at the weekend other than buying 4L of fibreglass resin and matting to make a start on the bonnet. but the temperature this weekend was way too cold for any glassing to be done.
I hope this coming weekend is less cold.
-
-
been looking to finish the geometry alignment on my car and i measured the tracking with two tapes and two straight edges, it came in at about 1.5mm toe in so i used my laser alignment tool and got he result below.....
by using the mirror above....
as you can see the laser line is to the rear of the central line....so toe in. and by only a small amount (i have to use trigonometry to work out how much) but very happy it works as i planned.
-
Permalink Reply by James Doulton on
-
If you want it in degrees then measure the misalignment in millimetres, divide it by the distance that the light travelled (there and back) in metres, then divide by 17.5. So looking at your picture it looks like about 20mm misalignment on your target, if your mirror is 2.5 metres away then the calculation is 20 / 5 /17.5, which comes to 0.23 degrees. However, this does all depend on your laser pointing exactly at right angles to the car centreline.
-
-
what i do is put the mirror on the N/S wheel and place the laser to point at it from about 1M away, i then move the laser until it zeros on the line above the inverted "V", then move the mirror to the O/S wheel and look for the reflection, the reflection you see on the picture above is about 5mm from the centre line.....
thus by zeroing the laser to the N/S wheel it is then calibrated at 90 degrees to this wheel, moving the mirror to the O/S wheel will give twice the error (slightly greater i think because of the 1M placement of the laser) By doing this it doesn't have to be on the centreline of the car.
-
-
Neat. As you say, you end up measuring the angle between the two wheels. You may have to do a few iterations to get the steering wheel straight. I don't think that the 1m affects the result. So you ended up with about 2.5m between the laser and the O/S wheel (so 5m of travel for the light). So at that distance, one degree would be 87mm, so your wheels are pretty much spot on with a 5mm error. Is that what you are after? I thought that cars generally are set with one degree or so of toe-in to make them less twitchy, my Escort book says 0 - 7mm, which on a 13" wheel means 0 - 1.25 degrees. In your set up that is up to approximately 0 - 100mm. (Reading my manual, it seems that the toe-in quoted is the total difference between the wheels, not each wheel)
-
-
I have tried both toe in and toe out. Toe out is not good! As for toe in less than 2mm works best and less than 1mm better. i run 0.5mm.
-
Permalink Reply by Dave Thomas on
-
Think im right in saying its toe in with rear wheel drive and toe out for front wheel drive.
-
-
the Lancia engined car has donated its bonnet....
and...
on my last car the bonnet didn't fit really well.....and neither does this one, its almost as if the front end is twisted out of line. Now i have measured this car a fair bit and i am fairly certain its not twisted.......
so i have spent a large part of the day making the bonnet hinges and making the best of a bad job. it'll soon be ready for paint.
About
© 2024 Created by Tim Walker (The Bodger).
Powered by
