Dutton Kit Cars and their owners

some pics of the rebuild process,

the top trailing arm bracket is broke......

the diff is sloping back a little (looking up) so that will need sorting.......

As you can see there isn't a lot of bracing in an S1 chassis, that will be sorted.

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I spy a battery, close to a test start Dave?? Some progress in a week, well done.

here are some more pictures of where i have got to so far....

A little more bracing on the transmission tunnel is required (later today i think) and some tabs at various locations on the frames to support the panels, the hand brake lever has been fitted and the gearbox mount has been altered and refitted to the car.

the transmission tunnel is different lengths on either side, (much easier to panel out) and it gives me room to fit my battery to the n/s just in front of the foot well.

as you can see the transmission tunnel is almost symmetrical, and using 1/2" square tube has given me at least 1" more space that the larger tube would have done.......also on the bottom of the picture the difference of the lengths of the transmission tunnel can be seen. The seating area is just short of 17" either side (it used to be different (and less) either side) the prop shaft runs about 1/2" from the seat side at its closest. This will have steel reinforcing here, in case the prop ever lets go....

this is the 3" extension to the drivers foot well, i also now have slightly more pedal box area.......

I have been fitting the pedal box today and adding some bracing to the transmission tunnel,

after careful measurement i am sure the pedals are as near as dammit in the same place as before, however sitting in the car it feels closer....odd.

I have altered the steering column angle slightly so that it is parallel to the dash surface and clears the pedal box position with out compromising the pedal position.

I have measured the width at the pedal box and on the old glass fibre pedalbox and it was in the region of 10" it is now 11 3/4" .......so result!

Dave have you altered the angle of the pedal at all as thats where i went wrong  hence my knees came up tight to the steering wheel, it worked out with my pedal box  that every 3mm at the top made them in inch towards your feet  so for 3/8" on mine was 3"forward

I had thought to alter the pedals themselves but not the top mount.....I will have an experiment and post the results....mine may be as much as 3/8 of an inch out as well.

I have put about 3-5 mm of washers behind the top pedal box mount and it moved the pedals back by about 1" the pedals will still need cutting and reshaping to improve matters as there is not enough thread to put more washers underneath. i am reluctant to do much with pedals until the seats are back in.

Can you not change the studs Dave ,the pedalbox i had used was Ford which used a splined stud so i knocked them out and welded longer 8mm bolts in where they came out , be careful as your reducing clutch pedal travel ,im sure you have already thought of this and i dont want to appear to be teaching you how to suck eggs, I altered mine without thinking it through so came across these problems     

a little more progress today just about finished the welding, and i have modified the pedal box some what. I have put it back where it was and cut up and re-welded the pedals, they are about 2" further back but they have the same travel.

and another.......

they are now in line with each other for the first time ever......and you can see the clearance there now is in the pedal area of the foot well.

more later....i have to do the family thing now.....

Blimey Dave there is no way i could drive your car , if i braked in it i would hit the clutch and throttle at the same time, whats the pedalbox out of ,i dont recognise it ?  

The pedal heads are about 2“ wide and the pedal box is now much wider than it was. the pedal box is Triumph.

Dave, I see you've added all the extra weight:) tubing in the cockpit but not replaced the rollbar. Did you not learn anything from AndyS's ramblings:):)

I took note of andys ramblings i even looked into buying a new roll bar. however having spoken to Andy smith for a few hours it seems the roll bar is adequate if braced for the chassis and roof support. i am not concerned about rolling the car......most folks will never roll a car in their whole lives i have done it once (in a relian robin in snow....) so do i fit a new stronger roll bar? how about air bags ooooh and 4/5 point harnesses. and that's my point Vern....where do you stop with safety features? I figure that any accident that involves my car ending upside down wasn't survivable anyway. besides most cars contemporary with our cars never had roll bars kits or otherwise. anyway if safety was my priority a dutton would be bottom of the list and a Volvo near the top.


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