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Dutton Kit Cars and their owners

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So, MOT sorted by the skin of its teeth, loads to do before tomorrow morning, panic has set it due to a little mishap with the pedal box...

How many of you fitted metal spreader plates between the pedal box and the bulkhead? Here is something for those of you with pinto engines to think about.

I didn't see this coming 8 years ago when I re built it... The holes are supposed to be there... the crack around the edge is not.

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Seems the proximity to the manifold has weakened the fibreglass of the tub a little

Well a lot actually :)

A metal spreader plate on the inside would have eased the load on the area and this may not have been quite so severe. This is going to be a fun evening..

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Comment by Adrian Southgate on March 9, 2015 at 19:41

Santa got me these...

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Made by Rally Design, SS hoses with a black shrink wrap type cover on the hose. Not shiny but probably very efficient.

Comment by Steve Kerswell on March 9, 2015 at 19:14

Talking of brakes, I replaced my flexis with stainless hoses after driving a kit with them fitted. Worth every penny, car pulls up better, seems to stop with less pressure on the pedal. Sorry Ade, pinched your thread.

Comment by Steve Kerswell on March 9, 2015 at 19:02

I have always used hammerite, never had any trouble, wire brush off and dab it on, touch it up if needed, about once a year when checking the brakes, flexible hoses etc.

Comment by Adrian Southgate on March 9, 2015 at 18:44

Big kit of parts to sort out tonight, replacement front stub axles on this legerra and all the trimmings. Replacing the old single thickness discs with vented, spacing the calipers, new wheel bearings, new flexi hoses, new pads, good clean up and a lick of some sort of paint is in order.

What types of paint have you guys used on your calipers and does it stick? All the retail stuff I have tried in the past is pants.

Comment by Adrian Southgate on July 1, 2014 at 23:30

So, here is the collection of fittings. 

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I finished the rough grind back and fitted the airline, the pressure gauge isn't so clever so PSI is unknown however I did manage to have the ally expand across the large panels up to 2mm out of shape with little or no leakage. I tried welding the first smaller fitting and it wasn't playing, its tacked on but bobbly so i'll take it back off and try again tomorrow. Maybe I had some finger grease on the ally around the hole.

Comment by Adrian Southgate on July 1, 2014 at 13:32

I have a bleeder pipe from the rad to the tank already, and a return pipe which goes to the lower end of the rad.

20 ish was where i thought Steve, hence the use of the tyre inflator on the airline and the car valve and pressure gauge. Im still not sure about finish, I'll see what its like when its all leakproof and clean.

Comment by Dave Adams on July 1, 2014 at 7:46
A small 5mm pipe to connect to the radiator from the new header tank will help bleed the cooling system.
Comment by Dave Adams on July 1, 2014 at 7:44
The issue of header tanks is one I am looking at for my car. I will use the VW one it will fit above the pedal box I hope. I am also really tempted to make and fit floor mounted pedal box.
Comment by Adrian Southgate on June 30, 2014 at 23:58

I've bought a standard 13 PSI cap and the alloy neck but I think I need to pressure test it higher than that. I was planning to fit a tyre inflation valve where the inlet pipe is going as it'll be about the right size, pressurize the tank using the airline which will give me a PSI reading so I don't go too high. 

I also planned on fitting a vapour release valve on the high point of the tank but i'm not sure if that'll just be over engineering. Maybe a pressure cap with a release lever would be more efficient. I still think that it's getting exhaust into the water under pressure as the honda rad cap leaked and so did the golf header tank.

Comment by Paul Sheridan on June 30, 2014 at 22:25

Worth just fitting the cap to start with and then pressure testing it before you drill the other holes.

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