Dutton Kit Cars and their owners
HPG128K - Dutton Sierra Series 2 - rescued from an early grave?
So the saga of the gearbox rear seal continues. When it had the rear crank seal done the garage also fitted a prop/tailshaft seal which promptly leaked just as badly as the one they took out.
When I had the horrible vibration issue it was coming from the prop not fitting into the gearbox. Thinking this might have damaged the bush inside the tailshaft and caused the leak I ordered a new one and another seal. Now if anyone tells you this is a DIY job DON'T believe a word of it. Getting the seal out is an easy one with a modified puller, getting down the side of the tailshaft past the bush is bloody impossible without the right tool. According to the haynes manual for the Ford Sierra its a ford dealer job...I now agree. As it was needed for work tomorrow the new seal went in without changing the bush, a right pain in the arse.
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Comment by Adrian Southgate on August 17, 2015 at 0:36
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War and Peace type update on Mr G's forums LINK. Not quite a done deal yet but getting there.
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Comment by Steve Kerswell on August 16, 2015 at 10:17
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Ref. the wheels, I did a bit of work for that guy, no thanks.
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Good man Steve. I did find one set but just didn't set the autobid on my PC DOH.
Anyway, found you some Sierra wheels...
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I wonder if other roller top mounts could be "adapted" i.e. I know some performance Vauxhalls had them. I have a standard pair here, once I feel up to it I will raid the shed and measure. Ouch :-)
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Managed to escape gardening detail for a few hours and get the mechanical parts of the tailgate functional. It now shuts and is self securing, doesn't rattle and is flush down both sides with the main body. Still need to do a little fine tuning on the locking mechanism as its a bit stiff. I Cut off the little bulge on the left side that used to contain the lock and removed the now useless number plate light. I'm even considering removing the lump that the Dutton badge sits on as mine is rough and completely obscured by the spare wheel carrier.
I fitted a new seal but that will need a little work before its' perfect, it does however keep the water out. I still have to fill the holes left by the bits I removed and finish the return edge along the bottom. The lower part is a complete ally unit but with enough room around the outside to refit the outer cover once finished. Number plate will be frenched into the lower section with some neat LED bolts that throw light out at 90 degrees to light up the plate.
Still misfiring after a coil change so going to put the old one back and change the dizzy cap etc tomorrow.
Still need a set of roller bearing strut tops, missed a set on ebay that went for £53, Well miffed as I was going to set up a snipe the night before and forgot.
I have my high level brake light in bits all over my office desk (sneaked it in under the electronics, needs soldering love, excuse...) it is a Hella one, 7 soldered in light bulbs like the one in the heater controls on the escort / capri, tiny little things in holders... Upgrading to LED's should be easy enough, although I really need 8mm LED's which means having no high brake light until my ebay supplier delivers. It was down to three out of the seven working so time for repairs. Absolutely shattered so going to nod off in front of the TV now.
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BUMP as it vanished off the main page... Pair of roller top mounts to fit the Sierra, anybody got a set they want to part with? I killed the old rubber ones so want roller bearing units, price is stupid for aftermarket ones so blagging mode engaged...
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Here we go, it's sunday and I have another small list of parts needed...
A set of roller top strut mounts to fit the Sierra please, concentric as I don't need to mess with the camber settings.
Told you it was a small list.
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UJ's are good, checked them when I fitted the new rack.
I'll do as Martin suggested and drop the track rod ends out, simplest way of isolating the moving parts works for me.
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Comment by Dave Adams on May 25, 2015 at 19:38
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or not i see you have tried that..as martin says disconnect the track rod ends and try the steering...
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often the problem you describe is caused by seized steering u/j's.
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