Opinions please gents

[Adrian Southgate]

The Sierra is giving me jip. Running rich, high tickover (1200 rpm), mixture screw is fully in - 1/4 turn back, starts misfiring at 2000 - 2200 rpm, throttle stop screw is backed off and not making contact, throttle cable has slack and is free moving, as it the throttle linkage assembly. Looking for places to start.

I will be doing a compression test when I get home tomorrow and will change the condenser too. 

Anyone got anymore thoughts?

[Adrian Southgate]

Cheers Danny

Looked up a few bits last night and I'm happy with most of the steps apart from fiddling the float levels.

I have a rebuild kit and a service kit so should be fine.

Classic ford website has a reasonable step by step with pictures as a PDF so I got a copy, will find a common place to stash it so everyone can have a read later.

Got part of tomorrow off so will have daylight to do the calipers, going to sort out all the carb parts tonight and make some parts lists, see what I have actually got.

[Dave Taylor]

Ade I have the weber carb book, will bring it to the Blundell tomorrow night.

[Adrian Southgate]

Cheers Dave

[Dave Adams]

i have cleaned a carb using a bottle of battery acid, it stinks but if you keep a careful eye on it it works lovely.

i have also used "allybrite" this is very active (contains phosphoric acid and will dissolve glass) but again cleans the interior of carbs very nicely (and out side)

make sure you clean off all the acid as carb walls are very thin and it will make holes....

[Adrian Southgate]

I have something a little less acidic to try first, will post up results if it works (wonder wheels, alloy wheel cleaner)

Are the main body castings the same for the crossflow and pinto?

[Adrian Southgate]

Yup, no worries with the wonder wheels, 

Used it before and I know just how vicious it can be, very dependant on the base material too as alloy wheels tend to dematerialize before your eyes if applied neat. I intend to agitate it with a paintbrush and then dunk it pretty quick.

[Adrian Southgate]

my bottle of wonder wheels appears to be past its sell by date as it was totally ineffective.

I have tried various bottles and tins of stuff in the garage to loosen the carbon on the aux venturi by soaking and so far the most effective seems to be citrus based label remover which produced sediment within seconds of being applied.

Luckily this is something we have in bulk at work so getting a couple of tins should be relatively painless.

[Adrian Southgate]

Right then guys, this is the result of stripping three 'spare' carbs so far (not the legerra one or the Sierra one or the DGAS)

I'll have to do it as bullet lists, I hope you can all follow this.

•                       TYPE            PACJ/SACJ    PMAIN/SMAIN  AUX VENTURI
• CARB 1 32      DGAV-5E     160/120           115/120            3.5/4.5
• CARB 2 32-36  DGAV-3D3   170/MISSING   125/MISSING   3.5/4.5
• CARB 3 32-36  DGAV-4D1   175/142           125/132            3.5/4.5 

PACJ = primary air corrector jet

SACJ = secondary air corrector jet

pmain = primary main jet

smain = secondary main jet

Now being a complete muppet I forgot where the idle jets were and left them in so will have to go back down 

[Adrian Southgate]

More digging, more info...

Carb 1 is from a 1.3/1.6 GT escort 

Carb 2 is from a 2.0 HC cortina/capri/granada

Carb 3 is from a 2.0 HC cortina

Carb 3 also has had both accelerator pump diaphrams fitted at some point. 

[Adrian Southgate]

The carb currently fitted to the sierra is a DGAV-8C1 which (typically) isn't on my application list :-( Google isn't my friend and only turns up 7 results (all gibberish) for that exact reference.  

I am going to rebuild the 4D1 carb body later but will check the legerra carb number first to see what that's off.

All the vacumn tubes are capped, carb is tightened down on the base plate with gaskets above and below the spacer plate.

Can't see anywhere it might be leaking badly enough so looks like its coming off and being replaced.

[Adrian Southgate]

Do you mean the bore of the barrel at its narrow point?

26 primary and 27 secondary

I'm test boring the other one out to 30mm to see what happens. Carb material is harder than normal ally, either that or my drill is blunt. :-)

The carb on the legerra is a dgv so manual choke but the plate is abraded and I cant read the last 3 digits.

Every time i set foot outside the garage it starts to rain too.

Local car spares shop has a manual choke conversion kit for the DGAV 32/36 for £32... about £20 cheaper than anything on ebay, the owner says they must have had the kit for over ten years...

[Big Vern]

Emulsion tube is the bit the air corrector is screwed into hould be something like F6 or F50

If your boring out only bore out the secondary barrel and by no more than a couple of mm otherwise you'll lose the venturi effect and it won't pull fuel out of the float bowl. Normally you'd increase both the 'barrel' size which means findind a bigger throttle plate and the vernturi together You need a minimum rally of 4mm difference so if your boring the secondary venturi 32mm - 4mm = 28mm

Boring the primary barrel is pointless unless you want poor fuel consumption.

FYI try 140 mains and 170 or 175 air correctors in either F6 or F50 E tubes

Not all the 'vac' ports should be blocked two porta are connected by a short hose.

CARB1 looks to be a 1.6L carb so don't bother with that one other than to rob it for jets if needed.