Paint

[neil parsons]

I need to paint my Paheton soon , it wont be black for much longer.

 

What is the process that i need to go through in terms of what type of primer and what type of paint (ie 2 pack , solvent , water based etc).

 

I am going to apply it myself in the gazebo thingy

 

Neil

[1midz0wwbl268]

Neil, first of all, unless you have professional air filtering equipment and breathing aperatus you must not use 2 pack, it is poisonious. 

some primers are water based, but most top coats are still solvent based,  preperation is the same, flatten back the existing coat with 240grit  till it not only looks smooth but feels it to your bare hand.

best method if you have a compressor is to spray, you need suitable thinners and top coat , several light coats applied at arms length from the car is best and steady use of the trigger, run to the end of each run before releasing the trigger, depending on what colour you decide to use then prime up the body, if you get the primer, top coat and thinners  from the same supplier, you shouldnt have any issues with one reacting with the other 

Before you spray, de greese thoughly and borrow the hoover and hoover off any dust on the body wash down with white spirit 

inbetween coats flatten back with 400 grade abrasive used dry  do not try to compound out and orange peel, until at least a week and then use 600 grit wet and compounding polish 

[Adrian Southgate]

I like cellulose, call me old fashioned but thats what I grew up with, spent 3 or 4 years doing murals in my spare time (when it was cool) and always used celly...

[1midz0wwbl268]

if you use cellulose be very carefull what thinners you use, most cellulose  these days are symphetic ,  i used enamel refinishing paint , its not cheap , but its very good for low tech usage, it spreys well but also can be applied by roller and brush  with good results , the only other advise i can offer is to watch out for dust, its what really lets you down if trying to paint under less that perfect conditions, hense why you need to hoover off inbetween coats after rubbing down.

[Paul Sheridan]

This is the procedure that I am using:-                  

All star cracks ground out down to fiberglass matt layer, washed out with Acetone and filled, then the whole body rubbed down to gel coat level in preperation for .... Restorers Cellulose paint, still available from Jawel paints.

1 coat of primer putty

1 coat of undercoat

2 coats of top coat

2 coats of clear coat

Blocking down between each coat.

Oh, and dont forget a large tub of elbow grease :-)) 

 

[James Doulton]

Where do you get the elbow grease, cos mine is run out?

[1midz0wwbl268]

Try your local DIY store, they keep it off the shop floor so you have to ask for it, i bought mine in bulk, just as well because i have just run out also.

if its a "solid"  colour you wont need clear coat  i painted  my melos by hand, i had no choice and it was hard work , and i didnt have star cracks to contend with , just a very poor paint finish to start with,  but it has taken me the best part of a  month, and in all 5 coats  and whilst its a very good end finish , and probally as good as i'm going to get, still think i could have done better, dust is a right pain, as i'm sure you will find out.

[Paul Sheridan]

Using a couple of coats of clearcoat will give the give the paint work a greater depth of shine, which will help to hide any inperfections in the bodywork :-)  always helpful on fiberglass. More Reflection....Less Imperfection. Funny how you rember little anecdote's like that, from a time when the paintshop was full of Vauxhaull Cresta's, Viscount's, Victor's and the like. Happy days!!  

[1midz0wwbl268]

Clear coat, is that same as yacht varnish, we use that at work to smarten up painwork , might have to "aquire" a tin, thanks for the tip:)) and another box of 400 grit abrasive.  

[Paul Sheridan]

Noooooo :-))))     High gloss cellulose lacquer thinned 1-1 with a high quality cellulose thinners.

[allan wheatley]

i get rid of spider webs do all sanding and filling u need to do get it smoth with 280 or finer grit spray whole car with isolator paint witch is just a sealer then 2 to 3 coats of high build primer leaving 15 to 2 min between coats

let harden off 24 hours for 2pack a week for cell 

flatten down with 600 grit

at bace coat if 2k or final coat if celli very fine mist for first coat leave 10 min then thicker coats leaving 15 min inbetweeen coats

2k colour sand after 2 days with 1000 wet an dry with a lot of water till get rid of ripples then even on direct to clos i put on at least 4 coats of clear let harden for a week then 2000 wet an dry very wet till nearly smove then compound it with 3 stage mop then clay block it then wax it and u get glass morror finish

cell colour put at least 3 good coats on wait at least a week 1200 grit paper very wet then 3 coats of laqur wait a week or even to and follow same as 2k after laqur

u can get primer that flexes but can be very exp per ltr but worth it as stops the cracking as much  and used it on fiberglass and carbon fiber formula fords and formula vees

look at pics on here of mine and that is after it has been spayed for 3 years still very very shinny

[allan wheatley]

and a nother tip before u spray wet the ground underneth and around will stop a lot of the dust lifting up

[allan wheatley]

cheeky git lol its been shorts and t shirt weather here today  but your right most of the time just think today was our summer lol