Camber correction

[Mark Bagnall]

Any suggestions for the simplest way to adjust the camber on a Phaeton Series 3 - ie escort based?  The camber is 1 degree different between sides 2 degrees and 3 degrees. Would like to adjust the 3 back to 2 with the minimum surgery - ideas?

[Mark Bagnall]

Hi Daryl. I had wondered about them so had a look back through old posts.  I will have to weld on damper mounts and there was a suggestions that the bending loads from the dampers were not what the adjusters were designed for (tension and compression only). I was wonder what was the simplest mod to the mounts or wishbone that people had found. 

[Mark Bagnall]

Yes - pragmatic. I’ve disconnected some bits and the inner tca mount is a couple of thicknesses of steel - the reinforcement looks original dutton. Thinking the best approach is to open the hole 3mm inwards (I calculate 3.14mm is 1 degree) then weld new plates on the outside of the mounts at the new position. Anyone any comments?

[Adrian Southgate]

Rob is prototyping a new design of TCA using new QH suspension arms and a new style of bracket.

I don't know what the final cost will be as it's still a work in progress. No doubt he'll chip in with some numbers shortly :)

[Paul Thomas]

To adjust  the caster on my s3 I Ground back carefully the shank where it went through the track control arms and use washers to set the caster angle,  Or you can move the front antiroll bar forward with longer studs and specers. 

If anyone is intrested I have a set of adjustable track control arms with shock mounts fitted, Only 1200 miles £75 +post at cost

[Mark Entwistle]

Do you still have these track control arms Paul

[Mark Bagnall]

The problems go a bit further - does anyone have a spare upright I could buy?  I have a different one on each side. The one in decent condition, drivers side, has the arm that takes the track rod end cast integrally with the upright. The near side one has a separate arm bolted on. I’m guessing the Mk1 escort was bolted, Mk2 cast. So if anyone has an all cast left hand upright they are prepared to part with let me know. Any comments welcome - I suspect some geometry difference between the uprights, certainly the arms do not end up in exactly the same place relative to the disc.

[Adrian Southgate]

I have Mark. I'll have a root in the unit as I know I have old suspension legs that can be made into Dutton uprights. Might even have one ready made but you'd be better getting one made from an old leg to exactly match your existing one.

Mk1 were all drum or integrally cast, apart from some Mexico and all RS, with a small taper on the track rod end hole. The Mk 1 had type 14 calipers and small discs. (apart from the Mexico and RS) All were fitted with the imperial mk1 rack but the RS and Mexico had imperial thread ends with larger metric tapers to fit the bolt on steering arms (arm and leg assemblies were shared with the Capri) These are known now as 'green' track rod ends.

Mk2 were mixed with more of the vehicles being fitted with disc brakes they produced the cast steering arm with M16 calipers and a 245mm disc in much larger quantities. 

I'm happy to have a root through as I know I have a left side mk2 integrally cast unit spare which can be cut down (I snapped the leg on the right side and had to change to adjustable coilovers on the Sierra)

If you let me know the amount of tube visible above the collar I will slice one off a bit larger so you can trim it, might even get it in the blast cabinet before shipping.

These are ones I prepped for the green legerra a couple of years ago.

On the second photo the 'collar' is the bit on the lower left and I would need to know the length of the tube left above it. You'd have to get your own tubes welded on for the maxi ball joint to bolt to.

[Mark Bagnall]

Ade, that would be great, thanks, I’ll measure tomorrow.

The right cast one must be mk2, larger hole than left bolt on and metric calliper mounts. Would the larger hole mean it is Mexico/RS 2000? Could you let me know the hole size on the top surface of the arm so I can compare.

Do you know if the geometries were the same mk1 to mk2?

[Adrian Southgate]

I think there was a difference between the bolt on and cast in legs although I'm not sure what it was. 

It may take me an evening or two to sort it out as the unit is a little busy right now. I know they are in there at the back - it's just getting to them. :( 

[Mark Bagnall]

Ade, if you have a modified strut that’s close to the right height that would be great, as it will speed things up - I’m trying to spend the summer on the road rather than garage!

My right/OS cast strut is cut to 59mm above the collar

My left/near side bolted strut (which is a different height) is cut 37mm above the collar

Let me know why you find in your lair

[Adrian Southgate]

Will do. I have a NS uncut strut which I can cut to size, the OS one is goosed so its a singleton and no loss being cut. To save on weight i'll strip it and if I get time, blast it.

Do you want a new wheel bearing included?

[Mark Bagnall]

The wheel bearing’s a good idea - although mine seemed ok not sure whether it would be damaged removing -or whether it would fit?