Identify that axle! oh and starting problems...

[Pete Clayton]

Took the rear drums off to have a look at the brakes. I want to get new shoes and wheel cylinders but i'm not sure what axle it is. Can anyone tell by the photos?

The other problem is I can't get the damn thing to run now either. Started fine tuesday night. Fitted new plugs and condensor yesterday. I accidently broke the rotor arm so put on an old spare and now it won't run.

Tried putting the old condensor back on too, points look brand spanking and aren't pitted. Have a good spark if I put a plug in to the king lead but the spark looks a bit weedy from a normal outlet and possibly intermittent. Voltage to coil is all good and fuel is getting to the carbs. Going to get a new cap and arm and see if that helps.

On a plus note, a new earth at the back now means all lights are functioning correctly!

[Big Vern]

Judging by the handbrake lever and bracket on the diff I'd say MK 2 Cortina - You should be able to get shoes and cylinders from brakes international though you need to confirm the wheel cylinder sizes.

BV.

[Pete Clayton]

Just been looking at some shoes on ebay was surprised how little meat they have on them to start with. Would I be right in thinking there is a fair bit of life left in the ones in the pic?

[Dave Taylor]

Hi Pete, I think BV is right on Mk2 Cortina, and the linings look ok to me. when new they should be about 3/16 of an inch, if they are riveted you can use them until they get down to the rivet on the leading edge, and if more modern bonded shoes have been fitted then right to the platform, but you really wouldn't want to push it that far.
If you take the shoes off be careful not to lose the little "H" plate that is fitted under the handbrake lever (on your picture you can see it on the right hand shoe. If you donerefit this you'll struggle to get the handbrake adjustment right.

[Paul Ford]

hi Pete have you got petrol in the float chambers, when i first tryed to to get my engine to run it would not go, had good spark petrol at the carbs tryed every thing. no mater how much i turned it over plug never got wet. found dirt in needle valves in float chembers ,clean them out no problems since Paul

[Pete Clayton]

Thanks Paul. I'm now pretty sure its a fueling issue. Have changed the plugs, condensor, dizzy cap, rotor arm, coil and king lead. Spark looks ok.

I took the airbox off and I do however seem to have fuel leaking out of the right hand carb, see the puddle on the engine mount! Any ideas where to start, not too clued up with carbs!

Paul Ford said:

hi Pete have you got petrol in the float chambers, when i first tryed to to get my engine to run it would not go, had good spark petrol at the carbs tryed every thing. no mater how much i turned it over plug never got wet. found dirt in needle valves in float chembers ,clean them out no problems since Paul

[Dave Taylor]

Those carbs have a diaphgram under the top cover, undo the 4 screw and check it, but be careful as the is a spring under there also. Don't worry it not a strong one but at least you now know it,s there. I'll have a look through some books I think I have a diagram, give me a few minutes.

[Dave Taylor]

OK I hope these help

[Dave Taylor]

The 2nd file is from an old work book we used when I was at college on my apprenticeship, a long time ago. I lost my books years ago in various house moves, but found this in an old book shop in shropshire last year.

[Pete Clayton]

Thanks they look quite useful. If I take of the top to check the diaphgram do I just undo the 4 screws or do I need to undo the big black screw as well? I wondered if the position of that was important? Diaphgram might make sense, if I cover the inlet with my hand on the left one I get good suction but get hardly anything off the right hand one.

The other thing I wondered was if it could be a stuck float?

[Dave Taylor]

It could be the float,but more likely to be the diaphgram. The black screw top is the damper simlar to the SU carbs, inside you will find a piston assy and the diaphgram. The diaphgram is then fixed to the piston again I think with 4 screws. When I look at your photo, the fluid looks like oil, and this is the usual sign that the diaphgram is torn. You should be able to pick a kit more 2 up on Ebay.
Let me know what you find, I am intrigued.

[Pete Clayton]

From both carbs the fuel looked a bit like oil but there was a lot more from the right hand one. I'll take the top off tomorrow if I have time. Do I need to unscrew the damper to take the top off or just the screws?

Dave Taylor said:

It could be the float,but more likely to be the diaphgram. The black screw top is the damper simlar to the SU carbs, inside you will find a piston assy and the diaphgram. The diaphgram is then fixed to the piston again I think with 4 screws. When I look at your photo, the fluid looks like oil, and this is the usual sign that the diaphgram is torn. You should be able to pick a kit more 2 up on Ebay.
Let me know what you find, I am intrigued.

[Dave Taylor]

You can leave the damper screw in I think as there is oil in the piston assy to make the damper work, and as the diaphgram is connected to the piston at the bottom, it should all come away in one piece. good luck, i think you'll find that's your problem as you said that it did run before, and if the engine as been stood for a long time the rubber as more than likely perished.